Day 27 - Going home, sort of...

It is 3pm and after a long wait, a new tire has been located and I am off to get it fitted. Just in time too. I am 1900km from home and cannot really afford to hang around till Monday. The journey (at least the aimless wandering part of it) is done and now it is time to make tracks. Now I have an excuse to come back :-) Adam (pictured) is a good bloke to meet when the chips are down. He and his dad picked me up last night, got me sorted in a hotel, found a tire, even organised some mates of their to come out and take a look to see if they could get me fixed at the roadside or if they could get me a second hand tire through the grapevine. In short, all round excellent blokes. Small wonder they all ride bikes too.


I booked a Eurotunnel crossing on Wednesday night in hope.....and then we went to put the new rubber on. Everything went went well until at long last, it was time to roll the bike out and would you believe it, it started spitting rain. I couldn't flipping believe it! I decided to go west, shortest route home but after about 30 minutes, the clouds in front of me convinced me to go south. I couldn't stand another soaking. Everything stinks the way it does when it has not dried properly for days. I need a new helmet cos this one is fetid inside. It doesnt owe me any money as I bought it to do the south american trip a few years back and a lot of sweat has seeped into it since then. I threw away the remnants of the waterproof leggings I bought in Trondheim. They were totally shagged. I feel a shopping trip coming on....


I decided on Krakow about 300km south and from there I will bumble along home in 4 days. Not much to note about the journey. I skirted Warsaw which is a little 'american' in that it has lots of strip development extending for miles out into the countryside. I was driving through urban sprawl for ages. I guess this a result of having been completely rebuild from scratch after the war. Dusk was pretty with a mist forming strange cloud shapes. I stopped about 30k short of Krakow in a small town in an exceptional little hotel.A a real find and all for 110 Zlotys a night, about 25 quid. Mad wedding band in the background as I write.

Day 26 - To Poland

I left Vilnius in glorious sunshine after a McDonalds breakfast....purely for the free wifi you understand. Actually, McDs are quite rare so far on this trip. I have only seen a couple so far and they are usually in capital cites. I backtracked to see Trakai Castle about 20km west of the city. Very picturesque and it hauls in the tourists by the busload.


Next on the agenda was Grutus Park near the Belarus border. After independence in 1991, most town squares in Lithuania had one or more soviet era statues. What was to become of them? Some of them were destroyed there and then by the crowds but the government removed and stored them. Along came the local mushroom magnate Viliumas Malinauskas who bought the lot and created a sculpture park, complete with fake guard towers, soviet era piped music and a genuine cattle truck used to ship people east. Strangely compelling, it has caused a but of a controversy here but still 200,000 people a year come in and pay 20Lt (about 4 quid) for the pleasure.


Not much time left I thought, so I decided on a short cut to get to Poland and take the wee roads rather than follow the signposted route. The road surface disappeared with the signs and then it got a but squirmy and sandy (a pet hate of mine). I began to wonder if I might be straying towards Belarus on the farm tracks, but a quick zoom out on the GPS indicated that the border was a good few klicks away. One more farm track and I started seeing polish number plates. Nothing to mark the border at all.

My GPS data for Poland is not that good so I headed for the nearest campsite about 65k away. As usual in the evening, the flipping rain started and this time it was a real bugger. The heavens opened and I couldn't see a thing. Proper biblical stuff with an inch of water on the road. I should have pulled over and sheltered but my boots were filling up....and then it happened. A kerbstone right in my path and I hit it doing about 30mph. Front tyre went down in a couple of seconds and I was wrestling the bike to the side. A close one.


Checked the tyre but there is a 2cm gash right near the rim so it is finished. It was just about shot anyway so no real loss. Called the recovery people and stood in the rain for an hour and a half getting hosed by every truck that passed. They have a lot of trucks here. Guys come and haul my baby onto an ordinary flatbed recovery truck and I wince with every manoeuvre. Not sure when or where I will be able to get a tyre tomorrow, possibly have to go to Warsaw. If nothing available, then I have a problem......

Day 25 - Vilnius Old Town

I decided to bumble around Vilnius for the day, the last of the three Baltic capital cities on the tour. It has been raining off and on all day and I don't fancy riding in that. The old town is positively stuffed with churches of all persuasions and it seems that many of them at some time have been Catholic, Lutheran, Orthodox, used as grain stores or even a 'Museum of Atheism'. The place is an orgy of baroque. Apparently pre WWII, it was even more so. If overdecorated churches is your thing, this is a place to see.

The old town itself doesn't have anything as much party life going on as Riga or Tallinn. It is a lot more laid back and 'european'. The other two have lots of pubs, taverns and night clubs. Vilnius has a more easygoing cafe feel to it. Not the place I would pick for a wild night on the town but still good fun. What it does have is 'high culture'.....theatres, three full size orchestras and a couple of smaller ones.

Heard of the 'Free Hugs' idea? If not, look it up on youtube or google. These kids were wandering round the centre today offering them to any takers. I had it in my head that it started in Australia....but they seemed convinced that it was a Japanese thing. Anyhow, I felt a bit awkward as they were so young so I just took the pic.

Later, I went to visit the ex KGB HQ. Part of it has been converted to a Museum telling the story of the horrors carried out in Lithuania by both Nazis and Soviets. In the basement is a prison which was in regular use up till independence. Some of the cells have been preserved in their pre 1991 state and include soundproof torture chamber, water torture room, isolation cells and execution chamber. Approximately 1000 people were shot in the basement between 1944 and 1991. The names of some of them are engraved on the granite stones of the walls on the outside. What is really weird is the casual nature of the official correspondence about the executions and disposal of the bodies in hidden graves around the city.

Day 24 - Curonian Spit

After a diet busting breakfast at the hotel (breakfast is usually included here) I headed for the Curonian Spit. This is a sandbar about 100km long and maximum 4k wide and bridges the corner of the Baltic between Lithuania and Kaliningrad which is Russian territory....German East Prussia as was until WWI. The border is about half way down. The spit itself is home to the largest sand dunes in europe, the biggest is 50m high. So there. Actually, the kids playing in these water zorbs was more fun to see. A long way down and back to see pines and sand as I don't have a visa for Russia I had to go back via Klapedia.

By the time I got back to where I started from this morning, it was 4pm. I decided to visit an ex Soviet Nuclear missile bunker . Only 50km away according to the map and there was a tour starting at 5pm according to the book of knowledge. It was 630pm before I found it....no roadsigns...no roads....and finally no exhibition. Sign at the gate said closed till 2011. Bugger. All this way for that. I ducked the fence and got as close as I could before the man turned up. Not much of a picture but there are a bunch of these large concrete caps on rails that cover the missile silos. Underground, is a large complex of tunnels and bunkers which allegedly you can tour. Next time.

I decided to make a run for it, and try get to Vilnius about 250km away. Like clockwork, the clouds boiled overhead, thunder, lightning, the full monty. My waterproof leggings are totally shot now, no arse left in them at all.

Day 23 - Kolka, Ventspils to Klapedia

It was a lot cooler today, a nice riding temperature of 22C so I decided to go west along the coastline to the Kolka peninsula to see the Baltic as I have not really done that. must be over a hundred miles of pine forest and beautiful sandy beach. All mostly empty it seemed. Right at the end, someone wanted payment to park the bike for a few minutes.....they are catching on fast here.

Further south, the gritty port city of Ventspils is trying to re-invent itself as a tourist destination. Until recently, is was major gateway for russian oil exports but that has all gone in the last 10 years. What is left are lot of soviet era 4 story apartment blocks, a lot of dockside cranes and a big port.....and somewhere in the middle is an older cobbled street town with a castle. They are being ambitious, to say the least. Actually, the guidebook says this is the number one day trip destination for Latvian schoolchildren.

In the late afternoon, the weather started to close in. This seems to be pretty predictable here. I took shelter from the thunder & lightening under the porch of a shop in a small town and waited for it to pass. And I waited. After about an hour, a smart guy turns up in his car and starts chatting and tells me he has a KTM Adventure and invites me to stay and tell me about my trip. Seems I am the most interesting thing to pass through for a while. Like an idiot, I declined. For some reason, I thought I wanted to keep going, that the rain would lighten. I spent the next 2 hours riding south in the rain cursing myself. A golden opportunity missed to meet some locals with something in common. Plonker.

Instead I headed for Lithuania. I had spent all my Latvian money & given the last few coins to some local kids while I was waiting. By the time 11pm came, I was soaking and still no sign of a campsite so I played the Visa card and write this from the comfort of 4* hotel complete with wifi.....but it could have been so much better. Idiot. I will say yes next time.

Day 22 - Riga

Riga is a city of 750k people and is the biggest city in the Baltics. The population is split about 50/50 Latvian-Russian and the evidence is everywhere, Notices, Food, Newspapers but you especially notice the conversation. This is the first time I have really noticed a large Russian influence. The place itself is stuffed with every sort of architecture from the last 500 years, but especially Art Nouveau.

There was a real buzz on the streets when I was there. I guess summer is short here so they party when the weather is right. Lots of open air temporary pubs/bars in the squares (with temporary loos too) Live music. I can see whey people get on a RyanAir flight for the weekend. Thankfully, there didn't seem to be any Stag parties in town. Perhaps on weekends only? These lads were breakdancing for change and were pretty good. Not as good as me.....but still good ;)

I went to the 'Museum of Occupation' and got the potted history of the place. All the Baltic states had a crap deal over the past 500 years but especially since about 1939. Waves of repression first by the Russians, then by Nazis and then again by Russians. I went to visit a memorial in Bikernieku forest which commemorates the thousands of people murdered here between 1941-44. The numbers are staggering. On November 30 1941, 28,000 people were brought to Ronumbula forest to be shot. Each mass grave is marked by a raised bed and a jagged rock rising from the middle. There are a lot of these graves here.

Further down the roads is the main Holocaust memorial. There is a central canopy in the middle covering a slab with the inscription "Oh earth, cover not my blood and let my cry have no peace". Around it is a garden of jagged stones radiating out. Each plot is inscribed with the name of city where the victims came from. It is a very moving place.

Walking home that night, I saw this moonrise over a bridge.

Day 21 - Tallin, Tartu & Riga

I packed up and left Tallinn this morning knowing that I will be back. A great place to lose a weekend or two and pick up some culture while you are t it. I set off with no real plan in mind other than I would not look for hilly twisty roads so I would therefore not be disappointed. It was a hot sticky day with the temp varying between 29 and 32 all day so there was no respite. I first headed East along the coast to the Soviet Unions first ever National park. It is a big thing, 725km/sq and as it was Sunday, quite a few locals were out hunting for berries in the woods. Quite a few of the roads are gravel so not much to see if you get behind traffic.

I turned south and seems like I This part of the world is pretty flat and relatively treeless for once. Lots of cereal fields. Wheat, Barley, Rye, the lot. The temperature and humidity was taking its toll and I had to resort to Ice-Cream and soaking my shirt in water to try keep cool.

I passed through Tartu, Estonia's major centre of learning. It has had a university for over 300 years and allegedly 1 in 5 people in the town is either a student or faculty. Lots of chocolate box buildings but I didn't hang around as it is just a bit too close to Tallinn. I might never finish this trip if I don't get a move on.



Every now and then you come across storks foraging beside the road or else sitting in their nests atop telephone poles. They are canny buggers and don't mind you going past quite close in a vehicle but of you stop or turn round down the road, they take notice and wont pose. Bastards. Only place they seem happy to do that is in the safety of they nest.

In the end, I decided to take the 'motorway' to Riga and there I had my first encounter with the Latvian overtaking manoeuvre. It is: drive 6 inches from the car in front, wait till there is oncoming traffic, floor it and just scrape in the gap in front of the car you just passed. Repeat. Apparently, the death rate on the roads here is appalling. Wonder why.